IRST LESSONS 



IN 



MANUAL TRAINING 



AND 



CARPENTRY 




J&L 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S 

HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

FREEPORT, ILLINOIS, U. S. A. 



FIRST LESSONS 

in 
MANUAL TRAINING AND CARPENTRY 

including 
CARE AND USE OF TOOLS 

GRINDING AND WHETTING OF THE SAME 

and the 

SHARPENING OF SAWS 



Exercises in 



1. SURFACING 3. MODIFIED FORM OF HALF 

JOINT 

2. THE HALF JOINT 4. TEST QUESTIONS 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S 
HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

FREEPORT, ILL., U. S. A. 



\ 



\ 



X 



jUBKARV of CONGRESS? 
\ Two Copies Re 

iAN 28 1901* 



0U1SSA XXc. *o' 
__ COPlj : 



g- 5333 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



CHAPTER I. 



GENERAL CA'RE OF TOOLS, BENCH AND ROOM. 

The most essential thing for a craftsman or mechanic is the tool. 
"Tools must not be abused." They must be kept clean and sharp. 
Occasionally they must be oiled to prevent rust. Keep tools in a 
rack purposely made for them. Have only the tool you are using 
on the bench or in hand ; the rest must be in their places. 

Do not mar, scratch or deface the bench in any way. In fact, 
your bench top should be as clean and polished as your library table. 
Never allow any shavings or dust to accumulate or remain on the 
bench. They will not only mar the bench, but also the object you 
are working at. A great factor in preserving the bench is the bench 




hook. You may do your sawing, chiseling, cutting and fitting on 
this. In this way you will protect your bench and work. Use it 
whenever possible. 

The room should be kept very clean. "A man's workshop is 
his castle." 




BENCH STOP. 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 





We show 'here a bench, bench stop and vice made by E. H. 
Sheldon & Co., Chicago, reliable manufacturers. 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

CARE, USE AND SHARPENING OF TOOLS. 

Disston & Sons handbook on saws, furnishes facts under this 
head. Disston & Sons saws are recognized the world over and we 
cheerfully recommend them to any one who wishes to possess good 
saws. 

PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS. 

The saw is either reciprocating or continuous in action, the first 
being a flat blade and practically straight edge, making a plane cut, 
as in hand, mill, jig and sash saws; the latter, either a circular of 
rotating disc, cutting in a plane at a right angle to its axis, a cylin- 
drical or barrel shape with a convex edge cutting parallel to its 
axis, or a continuous ribbon or band running on two pulleys making 
a plain or curved cut with a straight edge parallel to their axis of 
rotation. Practically speaking, the teeth are a series of knives set 
on a circular or straight line, each tooth cutting out its proportion of 
wood and prevented from cutting more by the teeth on either side 
of it. Each tooth should cut the same amount and carry out the 
chip or dust, dropping it below the material being sawed. Different 
kinds of wood require teeth varying in number, angle or pitch and 
style of filing. 

The perfect saw is one that cuts the fastest and smoothest 
with the least expenditure of power; to do this, it is evident that 
each tooth should be constructed and dressed as to do an equal pro- 
portion of the work, for if any of the teeth are out of line or shape, 
they are not only useless themselves, but a disadvantage to the others. 
We find many good mechanics who frankly acknowledge that they 
never could file a saw satisfactorily ; the probable reason is that they 
never studied the principle of the action or working of the tool. 
There is no reason why any man of ordinary mechanical ability 
should not be able to file, and keep his saw in order, but like all 
trades, it requires practice and study of the subject. 

The following illustrations and explanations will greatly assist 
in the selection of a saw and show the best method of keeping it in 
proper working order. These should be carefully studied. 

A saw tooth has two functions — paring and scraping. A slitting 
or ripping saw for wood should have its cutting edge at about right 
angles to the fibre of the wood, severing it in one place, the throat of 
tooth wedging out the piece. 

In a cross-cut wood saw, the cutting edge also strikes the fibre 

5 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



at right angles to its length, but severs it on each side from the main 
body before dislodging it. 

RIP SAW. 




Fig. 1. 

Fig. 1 is a four-point rip or slitting saw with the rake all in front 
where the cutting duty is. This saw should be filed square across,' 




in 



Fig. 2. 




/ 



.&/" 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

filing one-half the teeth from each side after setting, which will give 
a slight bevel to the cutting edge of tooth, as it should be for soft 
wood ; for medium hard woods a finer toothed saw with five points 
to the inch should be used and dressed in the same manner ; for the 
very hardest and toughest cross-grained woods a still finer toothed 
saw is required, with the teeth filed slightly beveling, as ripping 
cross grained stuff partakes a little of the nature of cross-cutting. 
In all cases where ripping is done, the thrust of the saw should be 
on an angle of about 45° to the material being cut, as shown in Fig. 
2, this makes a shearing cut, an advantage that can be quickly dem- 
onstrated with an ordinary pocket knife cutting any piece of wood. 
For ripping thoroughly dry lumber, it will be found advantageous to 
use an extra thin back saw which will run without set. 

CROSS-CUT HAND SAWS. 

In cross-cutting the fibre of the wood is severed twice — on each 
side of the saw — the thrust dislodging and carrying the dust out. 

Fig. 3. is a five point peg tooth cross-cut saw with the rake on 
the side. For the same reason that the rip saw has the rake on front 
of tooth, the cross-cut has it on the side, as that is where the cutting 
duty is. The bevel or fleam to teeth in Fig. 3 is about 45°, while 




Fig. 3. 

there is no pitch at all ; the angle on each side being the same, forms 
the "peg tooth," which is best adapted to cutting soft, wet and 
fibrous woods. This style of tooth is principally used in Buck-saws. 
In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the 
duty required ; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and 
liable to spring, but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the 
saw-dust. The throat space in front of each tooth must be large 
enough to contain the dust of that tooth from one stroke ; the greater 
the feed, the deeper the dust chamber required, or, more teeth. 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

The first point to be observed in the selection of a saw is to see 
that it "hangs" right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position 
for working, to see if the handle fits the hand properly. These are 
points of great importance for comfort and utility. A handle should 
be symmetrical, and the lines as perfect as any drawing. Many 
handles are made of green wood ; they soon shrink and become loose, 
the screws standing above the wood. We season our handle-wood 
three years before using. An unseasoned handle is liable to warp 
and throw the saw out of shape. The next thing in order is to try 
the blade by springing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly 
from point to butt in proportion as the width and gauge of the saw 
varies. If the blade is too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw 
will never give satisfaction, because it will require more labor to use 
it ; the thinner you can get a stiff saw the better ; it makes less kerf 
and takes less muscle to drive it. This principle applies to the well- 
ground saw. There is less friction on a narrow true saw than on a 
wide one ; you will get a smaller portion of blade, but you will save 
much unnecessary labor at a very little loss of the width. 

See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning 
breast ; place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by 
which you can see if there is any imperfection in grinding or ham- 
mering. We should invariably make a cut before purchasing a saw, 
even if we had to carry a board to the hardware store. We set our 
saws on a stake or small anvil with a hammer ; a highly tempered 
saw takes several blows, as it is apt to break by attempting to set it 
with but one blow. This is a severe test, and no tooth ought to 
break afterwards in setting, nor will it, if the mechanic adopts the 
proper method. The saw that is easily filed and set is easily made 
dull. We have frequent complaints about hard saws, though they 
are not as hard as we would make them if we dared ; but we shall 
never be able to introduce a harder saw until the mechanic is edu- 
cated to a more correct method of setting it. As a rule, saws are 
given more set than is necessary, and if more attention was paid to 
keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any well-made saw would 
run with very little set, and there would be fewer broken ones. 
The principal trouble is that too many try to get part of the set out 
of the body of the plate, whereas the whole of the set should be on 
the teeth. Setting below the root of the tooth distorts and strains 
the saw- plate, which- may cause a full-tempered cast-steel blade to 
crack and eventually break at this spot ; and it is always an injury to 
the saw, even if it does not crack or break. 

8 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



The teeth of a hand saw should be filed so true, that on holding 
it up to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central 
groove down which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length; 
this groove must be angular in shape and equal on each side, or the 
saw is not filed properly and will not run true. 



Fig. 4. 
M 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. G. 



Fig. ?. 



U 



I: 



Fig. -i shows how the groove should appear on looking down 
the edge of the saw ; the action should be such that the bottom of 
kerf will present the appearance as shown in Fig. 5, and not like 
Fig. (J ; the cutting action is as shown in Fig. 7, the cutting being 
done with the outside of the tooth, the fibre of the wood is severed in 
the two places and the wood is crumbled out from point to point by 
the thrust of the saw. 

The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth is very important, 
as is demonstrated by the above figures, for if too much bevel is 
given, the points will score so deeply that the fibres severed' from the 
main body will not crumble out as severed, but be removed by con- 
tinued rasping, particularly in hard woods, as they require less bevel, 
as well as pitch, than soft wood. 

Fig. 8 shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a medium 
amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the 
back. This tooth is used in buck-saws, on hard wood, and for gen- 
eral sawing of woods of varying degrees of tenacity. This style of 
dressing is the best, but a number of saws each having teeth suited 

Fig. 8. 




THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



to its particular work, will be found more advantageous than trying 
to make one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. 

We will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake 
or pitch ; this being one of the most important features, too much 
care cannot be taken to have the correct amount of pitch for the 
duty required. To illustrate this, Fig. 9 represents a board, across. 
which we wish to make a deep mark or score with the point of a 

Fig. 9. 




knife ; suppose we hold the knife nearly perpendicular as at B, it is 
evident it will push harder and will not cut as smoothly as if it was 
inclined forward as at A ; it follows then that the cutting edge of a 
cross-cut saw should incline forward as at C, rather than stand 
perpendicular as at D. 

Too much hook or pitch, and too heavy a set are very common 
faults, not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw ; the 
first by having a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly 
that frequently it "hangs up" suddenly in the thrust — the result, a 
kinked or broken blade; the second, by having too much set, the 
strain caused by the additional and unnecessary amount of set is 

10 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



out of proportion to the strength of the blade, and is broken in the 
same manner. The most general amount of pitch used is 60°, 
though this may be varied a little more or less to advantage, as oc- 
casion may demand. 

The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam, of the 
point. In Figs. 10, 11 and 12, the filer, as in all cases, files from the 
heel to the point which is the only correct way. The file is supposed 



Fig. 10. 




Fig. 11. 




11 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



to be horizontal to the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an 
angle of about 45° longitudinally with the length, measuring from 
file line toward heel. 

Fig. 10 is a five-and-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the 
same amount of fleam front and back. This saw is best suited for 
work in soft wood, and where rapid, rather than fine work is re- 
quired. A shows the position of the file, B an exaggerated view of 
shape of point, and C the shape of point. 

Fig. 11 is a seven point saw for medium hard woods, illustrated 
in same manner as Fig. 10. This tooth has less fleam on the back, 
which gives a shorter bevel to point, as at C. 

Fig. 12. 




Fig. 12 is a still finer saw, having ten points to the inch. This 
saw has no fleam on back, the result being very noticeable at C and 
B. This style of point is for hard wood. 

It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. 10, 
11 and 12 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length 
of saw is quite different, consequently upon the difference in the 
angles of the backs. 

12 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 




Fig. 13. 
Fig. 13 is a representation of some of the saws we have seen; 

there are entirely too many such now in use, and we have no doubt 
their owners arc shortening their lives in the use of them as well as 
those of the saws. To owners of such saws we say, take them to the 
factory and have them retoothed, or buy a new saw and take a fresh 
start, and steer clear of this style of filing-. 

As we said in the preceding pages, and as will he seen by Figs. 
10, 11 and 12, the filing should be done from the heel of saw toward 
the point. Many practical saw 7 filers contend this is wrong, that the 
filing should he done from point of saw toward the handle, but the 
only support they have for their theory is that they do away with 
the feather edge that the filing from the heel of saw puts on the 
cutting face of tooth. The feather edge is no objection, as the main 
part of it is removed when the teeth are side-dressed after filing. 
(After a saw is properly set and filed, lay it on a flat board and rub 
over the points of the teeth on the sides with an oil stone. Do this 
from heel to point, never in the opposite direction-. This will regu- 
late the set and insure smooth cutting, making the filing last longer. 
Should the saw not run true take another cut with the oil stone over 
the side toward which it leads.) 

Against the correctness of filing from point to handle may be 
cited the following objections : 

Where a different angle of back is required^ (it being remem- 
bered that angle of face should be the same in nearly all cross-cut 
hand saws, and that angle of back governs angle of point), it will be 
found very difficult to obtain it without changing angle of face of 
tooth, and as the cutting duty is on the long side of face, any change 
is, of course, of great influence. 

Again, (though we think the above argument sufficient) to file 
from point of saw. it is necessary to file with the teeth bent toward 
the operator ; this will cause the saw to vibrate or chatter, which not 
only renders good, clean, even filing impossible, but breaks the teeth 
off the file. 

13 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



In the preceding illustrations, we have only given the coarser 
saws that are in most general use, but the same principle of filing 
should be applied to the finer toothed saws regarding angles and 
pitch suitable for woods of different degrees of hardness, the only 
actual difference being that one saw has finer points, and they being 
finer, require a little more care and delicate touch in setting and 
filing. 

Fig. 14. 



Fig. 14 is a section of an eleven-point saw suitable for the finer 
kinds of work on dry, soft woods, such as cutting mitres, dove-tail- 
ing, pattern work, etc. 

WHAT CONSTITUTES HAND AND RIP SAWS? 

As a matter of interest it may be stated whilst there is a general 
understanding in the Hardware Trade that Hand saws are 26 inches 
long and Rip saws 28 inches long, this is not carried out by facts. 
There are a great many Rip saws made of shorter lengths, such as 
22 and 24 inches, for the term '"Rip" applies to shape and style of 
tooth only and not to the length of the saw. Likewise the Cross-cut 
or Cutting-off saws may be made in any length desired. 

As to the graduation of teeth in Rip Saws, the purpose of this 
is to enable the user to start the saw in the work more easily by 
commencing the cut with the end or point of blade where the teeth 
are somewhat finer than those at the butt. 

PANEL SAW is a term commonly applied to any Hand Saw 
with cross-cutting teeth, shorter than 26 inches in length. It was 
formely used in designating cross-cutting Hand Saws with fine 
teeth, of any length, but is now obsolete in that particular. 

TENON SAW. Some mechanics apply this term to Panel 
.Saws, though it more properly applies to a Back Saw. 

BACK SAW, sometimes termed Tenon Saw, is used for fine 
bench work, pattern-makers, joiners, etc., and is also made in special 
lengths and widths for use in mitre-boxes for cutting moulding etc 

14 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



The MITRE-BOX SAW has a peculiar shaped butt or heel, making 
the toothed edge two inches shorter than the full length of blade. 
The purpose of this is to prevent the "heel" from catching in the 
work. 

LAYING-OUT TEETH. 
The following cuts show the method of laying-out Rip saw teeth 
and Cross-cut saw teeth, the angles of the teeth remaining the same 
as these sketches for all sizes of teeth. It will be noted that the Rip 
saw tooth is made with a straight front, whilst the front of the 
Cross-cut tooth is given a slight pitch or rake. 





SAW SET. 
There are many saw- 
sets that ruin the saw ; the 
best form is one that in- 
volves the principle of the 
hammer and anvil ; with 
such a set the teeth would 
all be bent evenly, and can- 
not be otherwise, though 
repeated blows be given. 
In the Star saw-set, repre- 
sented in the following en- 
graving this principle is in- 
volved, and we guarantee 
this tool to do the work 
satisfactorily. 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

Prominent among the advantages claimed for this set is that it 
can be operated by the foot by means of a treadle, thus leaving the 
hands free to guide the saw ; or it can be used by striking on the top 
with a light mallet. 

. I is the plunger, operated by a treadle attached to E, under the 
machine, a slight tap with the foot setting the tooth ; B, the hammer 
or striking part ; C, the anvil ; D, the movable gauge ; F, the screw 
to regulate the amount of set. The striking part, and the anvil, or 
portion which receives the blow, are star-shaped, and similar in con- 
struction. The points are all of different sizes, numbered from one 
to six, and are designed to set different sized teeth. It will strike a 
blow as sharp and effective as though by a hammer, and is the most 
useful and complete saw-set that has ever been offered. If the saw 
is hard, several blows should be given in setting it, raising the back 
of the saw from the guide-screw F when the first blow is given, and 
gradually lowering it with each blow until the process is complete; 
thus many a good saw will be saved from utter ruin. A trial will 
suffice. Be sure to clean the saw teeth before setting. 

We here refer to two more saw sets of H. Disston make. The 
one is the "Monarch" and the other the "Triumph" saw set. These 
saw sets, with instructions for use, may be purchased of most any 
hardware firm. 

GRINDING AND WHETTING. 

Plane irons or chisels should be ground on the grindstone if 
nicked, rounded or real dull. To grind the chisel or plane iron we 
offer a special device not known to the common mechanic. See 
sketch No. 1. 




The sketch indicates plainly that the stone is revolving in the 
opposite direction to the piece to be ground. Move the tool gradu- 
ally from one side of the stone to the other. This process will not 
only keep the tool, but also the stone straight across the face. In 
this sketch you will also notice that a bevel block (A) is fastened on 
to the frame. Said block is a guide for the bit (B) to be ground. 

16 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



Mold the face of your bit or iron onto the block, moving it slowly 
from right to left and back until finished. In this way if you will 
not permit the tool to assume a rocking motion you will have 
the most satisfactory result of grinding. 

In grinding a cutting tool, you must always aim to secure a 
concave end, a convex end will never cut. A tool ground at 60 de- 
grees to the face of same is usually ready for whetting. 

The whetted edge should never be ground away unless the 
chisel is nicked or otherwise in very poor condition. 

The grinding is complete when the bevel (B) reaches the cut- 
ting edge. Fig. No. 2. 

<ttO. 2 

Fig. No. 2 shows the chisel or iron ground and ready for whet- 
ting, that is, concave. 

Fig. No. 3 shows the bit or chisel in poor condition. Never 
permit tools to become that way, that is, convex. 

we, A 

\£=> 

To whet or sharpen the iron after it has been ground, an oil 
stone is used. A good natural stone should be selected. Olive oil 
will bring better results than any other oil, although some thin 
machine oil will do. Should the stone become gummy, this substance 
may be removed by the use of kerosene. Many mechanics whet 
their plane iron in the manner as indicated in Figure No. 4. 




In whetting the iron avoid a rocking motion as this will dull 
instead of sharpen. We propose for you to take the following 
course as indicated in Fig. No. 5. 




You will at once notice that not the full bevel but the outer edge 
of the iron is whetted. In this manner the process of whetting is 
shortened to but a few strokes, and in addition you can by careful 

17 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



use of the iron whet the same several times without grinding it. To 
sharpen the iron place it as shown in Figure No. 5, and move it 
forth and back as indicated by arrow heads. After taking a few 
(say three) strokes of the bevel side of the iron, turn the same over 
so that it will rest perfectly flat on the stone as shown in Figure 

HO 6 



^m 



are — r 



No. 6, moving it back and forth lightly a few times. In whetting 
the flat side care must be taken not to raise the back end (See Fig. 
7) of the iron, as it will injure the cutting quality. 




This and the movement shown in Figure 5 should be repeated 
at least once to remove the wire edge. After this has been done it 
will be well to draw the iron over a leather strap fastened to a wood 
block, both face and bevel sides. We wish to call your attention to 
a very important point. In sharpening a plane iron (not a chisel or 
a plane iron for a rabbit plane which should have a perfect straight 
edge across the face) you will slightly whet the corners of the iron 



\7 



as shown in Figure 8, thus preventing the plane from digging a 
sharp corner into the wood. If you have a perfect straight edge on 
the face of the iron, as shown in Figure 9, the corners of the iron 



\y 



K%0. 

will dig into the wood, the plane will become clogged and the sur- 
face thus obtained will be unsatisfactory. However, we caution you 
not to overdo this. 

18 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

CUTTING TOOLS. 

Under this heading we are indebted to the Stanley Rule & 
Level Co., and we heartily recommend their marking, cutting and 
testing tools as of superior quality. 



PARTS FOR PLANES. 




1 Plane Iron. 

2 Plane Iron Cap. 

3 Plane Iron Screw. 

4 Cap. 

5 Cap Screw. 

6 Frog. 

7 "Y" Adjustment. 

8 Brass Adjusting 
Nut. 

9 Lateral Adjust- 
ment. 

10 Frog Screw. 

11 Handle. 

12 Knob. 

13 Handle "Bolt and 
Nut." 

14 Knob "Bolt and 
Nut." 

15 Handle Screw. 

16 Bottom (Iron 
Plane.) 

35TopCasting(Wood 
Plane.) 



In planing, care must be taken to hold the plane firmly on the 
work to secure a true surface. A rocking motion must be avoided. 
To secure a smooth surface place the plane iron cap (2) on to the plane 
iron (1) say within 1 T V from cutting edge. If the cap is fastened 
too far back the plane will do rough work, if fastened too far front 
the space between iron (1) and cap (2) will clog up and cause other 
troubles. With a little practice this can be overcome. 

The plane iron cap No. 2 is a piece of steel fitted so that it will 
form a chip breaker. Never allow the plane iron No. 1 to become 
too dull or have the same project too far out of the plane face. Best 
results are obtained by taking thin smooth shavings. By taking 
heavy shavings the surface will become uneven and coarse. 

To get a straight surface care must be taken not to get the ob« 
ject convexed or round. To do this the plane must be in the start 

19 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

held firmly down at the front end and also in leaving the object the 
rear end must be held firmly while the pressure at the front end must 
be accordingly relaxed. Always take as long and straight a stroke 
as your object and your arm will permit. This will, however, not 
apply to planing across the end grain of the wood. In this case the 
plane should be held in a slanting position and must never be shoved 
to the end but instead will be reversed thus avoiding breaking out 
the corners. v 

PLANES. 

For surfacing we know three different kinds of planes, viz : 
Jack Plane, Smooth Plane, and the Jointer. 

"BAILEY" ADJUSTABLE PLANES WITH CORRUGATED 

BOTTOMS. 




The Jack Plane might be called a roughing plane, as it is 
usually used to take the rough and uneven places from the board. 
The iron jack plane is about 14 or 16 inches long. The plane iron 
for this plane should be ground partly convex across the face. This 
is advisable where a good deal of wood is to be removed. This may 
be followed with the same plane having a straight ground iron in- 
serted. With this the Jack Plane may be used as a Smooth or a 
Jointer plane. 

THE SMOOTH PLANE. 




The Smooth Plane is made in sizes from 7 to 10 inches in 
length. Its object is to smooth a surface without regard to straighten- 
ing it, as the straightening has previously been done. 

20 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

The Jointer is the most important plane the skilled woodworker 
knows. For making glue joints, straight edges or straight surface 
in general it is indispensable, although for pieces of short lengths the 
Jack Plane may be substituted. 

The Block Plane. We mention the Block Plane because it is 
frequently used by mechanics, but is of little importance, as all that 
can be done with it can be done with the above planes. 




PARTS OF BLOCK PLANES. 



No. IB Plane Iron. 

No. 4B Plane lion Cap. 

No. 5B Cap Screw. 

No. 7B Adjusting: Lever, 

No. 8B Adjusting Nut. 

No. 9B Lateral Adjustment. 

No. 16B Bottom (Adjustment Throat ) 



No. 20B 
No. 21B 
No. 22B 
No.26B 
No. 28B 
No. 46B 



Mouth Piece. 
Eccentric Plate. 
Knob. 

Adjustable Frog:. 
Adjusting: Screw 
Bottom. 



21 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



EXERCISES 1, 2 and 3. 



SURFACING AND THE HALF JOINT. 



EXERCISE I, Surfacing. 

Material — Dimensions roughJ^x^xl2 in. 

Material — Dimensions finished ^xl^xl2 in. 

Surfacing. Place the block of wood, already sawed, on the 
bench against the bench stop. Allow about T V of one inch on two 
sides for dressing and planing. The length of the block should have 
from y 2 to 1 in. for waste, thus allowing for practice cutting. 

A plain surface is a surface without curvature. 

Plane the best side until it is straight lengthwise, crosswise and 
free from twist. 

To test your work now make use of the parallel sticks. 

PARALLEL STICKS. 

The Parallel Sticks are two pieces of wood of uniform size and 
should always be used for accurate work. Let the two sticks be ?4x 
2x 18 in. Great care must be taken to have the pieces exact and 
alike in width. Place the sticks on the wood to be tested for twist at 
the two ends of the stock. 




Taking the direction of the arrow, sighting across the two 
sticks it will prove at a glance whether or not the stock is twisted. 
If the projecting edges show uneven, Figure 10, then your stock 
has twist and must be planed until the projecting edges of the par- 
allel sticks become even, Figure 11. Thus the piece is properly 
prepared and free from twist. 

(The parallel sticks are magnifying, therefore are always re- 
liable.) 

22 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



After preparing the side as described above, mark it "x", thisj 
indicating that it is the face side. 

"Side" here used means the wider surface in distinction from 
the narrower surface or the edge. 

Plane the edge perfectly straight lengthwise and square to the 
face side. Use the try square for testing, and be sure that the work 
is exact. Mark this working edge also "x". 



THE TRY SQUARE. 




| I | I | I ! | 1 j I | I I | I | I | I | ! | I | I | I I I I I I I 



& 



The try square has two distinct uses : First, as a 
guide for the pencil or knife point in laying out lines 
across the grain at right angles to the edge, as shown 
in Figure 12. Second, for testing the adjoining sides 
to see if they are square to each other. In this second 
capacity the try square is not a marking but a testing 
tool. See Figure 13. 




NO.IQ. 



THE GAUGE. 




^■satKEC^SSIS 



The next tool to be used is the Gauge. To gauge a line parallel 
to the edge of a block, hold the gauge firmly with the right hand. 
Tip the tool away from you until the spur, or marking point, barely 

23 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

touches the wood. Push the gauge away from you. If you, how- 
ever, prefer to draw the tool towards you, the gauge must also be 
tipped towards you. See Figure No. 15. 




Be sure that the gauge block tightly touches the given or work- 
ing edge at all times. In this way you will have control of the gauge, 
while if used some other way the spur will follow the grain of the 
wood and therefore the mark will be incorrect. 

Set the gauge to the given width (V/ 2 in.) and gauge from the 
working edge on both sides. Now plane to the gauge lines, but be 
sure to stop there. The try square is not used in this case. If the 
gauging and planing have been properly done, this side will also be 
square to the face side and parallel to the working edge. 

Next set the gauge to the required thickness (^ m -) and pro- 
ceed as before. In order to make this real plain we will call the four 
sides by numbers, namely : No. 1 face side, No. 2 working edge, No. 
3 rear edge, No. 4 rear side. 

If two or more pieces of short length are to be surfaced, they 
should be done in one long piece and cut off afterwards. The work 
done in this way will prove more uniform. 



EXERCISES 2 AND 3. 



HALF JOINT AND MODIFIED FORM OF SAME. 

When two pieces of wood cross each other and the joint is to be 
flush, (level or even) they are halved together. One half is taken 
out of the face side while the other half is taken out of the opposite 
side, this bringing the two pieces face up. 

24 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 




Figure 16 shows the pieces put together. 




Figure 17 is a projection drawing of the same. 



**>' 



¥ 















*a/r 







* 

The exercise on the face must measure as shown in Figure 18, 
To begin this work plane and square your piece as explained under 
Surfacing. The piece of lumber when prepared is V/2 in. wide, y$ 
in. thick, 12 in. long. 

Now cut one end perfectly square across the side as well as 
across the edge. After the piece has been planed true and to the 
correct dimensions, lay out the lines across the face (Fig. 19, 1) and 
down the working edge, (Fig. 19, 2) with a knife and try square 
cut notch a. b. across the face side only, while on the working edge 
a true sharp mark will do. Place the saw in the notch, hold it lightly 
against the flat side and saw down on mark 2. It is plain that all 
marks for this exercise must be made with a try square and a sharp 
knife. You will notice that in the above the try square is used as a 
marking tool. 

25 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 




Let Fig. 19 1 be your starting point. Measure off from it 5^2 in. 
and repeat the square cut system. Cut another piece 5^2 in. long, thus 
giving you the two pieces to be halved together. Here we must 
insist that both pieces should be properly marked "x" face side and 
"x" working edge. 

We will now begin to lay out the work. (Time spent in laying 
out work is never wasted time.) Beginning again at the end or the 
starting point, we will measure off 2 in., (see Figure 20), making a 
knife mark. 

Sr/tffrtj 

f>4t»T 




Upon this mark place the second piece of wood crosswise and 
on the opposite edge make another knife mark. Be careful not to 
have the marks too far apart as that would make a poor joint. It is 
well to have the opening a trifle smaller than the piece it is to receive. 

Having obtained these hinging points, use the try square and 
square them across the sides and edges that are to be cut on. Gauge 
from face side only. Set gauge to Y% in. which is one half the thick- 
ness of the piece to be framed. Shoulders must be cut with saw only, 
but must always be prepared with a knife cut as shown previously. 

Having sawed to the desired depth on both sides, the surplus 
stock will have to be lifted out by means of a chisel. Great care 
must be taken not to chisel too deep, neither must there be any 
surplus stock left, as this will make a rocking joint and will soon 
give way. 

We recommend the use of the chisel in this exercise as in Figure 



^* 




THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

21, thus showing- that the straight side of the chisel is at the top and 
the bevel side is doing the lifting. For the finishing you must re- 
verse that method and use the straight side of the chisel to make a 
smooth, straight joint. Do not cut from one edge only but frequent- 
ly turn the object. 

Put the two pieces together, plane up, and you should have a 
perfect half joint. You may glue the pieces together if you so desire. 

MODIFIED FORM OF HALF JOINT. 




Material rough : — One piece 1x1^x8 in. 
Material finished : — One piece ^4x1^x8 in. 
Construction : — 

1. Prepare face side, planing the same until perfectly smooth 

and true, and mark "x". Use parallel sticks to ascertain 
the perfection of the face side. 

2. Square to the face side must be the working edge, plane 

and smooth and marked the same as the face side. 

3. To get the proper width set the marking gauge 1^2 in. and 

with same mark all along the face as well as the opposite 
side and plane down to the mark. Be sure to stop when 
you reach the mark. 

4. Lastly prepare an opposite or rear side to the face side, 

thus setting the gauge to the required distance (here 24 
in.) and mark along both edges. Plane the rear side 
until you reach the mark. 

5. Lay off the piece so that you can cut same in half. Lay off 

with try square and knife and be sure to have both ends 
square when cut off. Starting at these ends lay off one 
piece on the face side and the other on the rear side 
\y 2 in. from ends, marking with knife and square. 

27 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

>. Gauge the pieces from the face side only, marking along 
the edges and end exactly in the middle of the thickness 
which in this problem is Y% in. 

L Cut shoulders and tenon with saw only. On one piece 
take the half out of the face side, and on the other piece 
take it out of the rear side. 

5. In cutting the piece lengthwise or with the grain, you will 
not saw in the middle of the gauge mark, but saw in favor 
of the remaining piece or tenon, leaving one half of the 
gauge mark on the tenon piece. 

). Put the two pieces together and you should have a perfect 
lap joint, or modified form of half joint. 



Upon application we will furnish instructions how to build your 
own bench and bench hook. 




28 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

EXAMINATION CARD. 

1. Is your piece free from twist? 

2. Have you marked the face side "x"? 

3. Is the working edge marked "x" and is it square to the face 

side ? 

4. Is your piece of required width? State how wide? 

5. Is your piece of required thickness? State how much it 

measures 

6. Did you cut the first end square? Explain "now 

7. How far from the starting point is it to the other end of 

the piece ? 



8. Have you cut two pieces of the required length and are 
they both of same length? State how much difference 

there is between the two pieces 



9. Give distance from end to cross piece. 



29 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 

10. Did you employ the square cut rule for sawing your 

shoulders ? 

11. What success did you have by using it ? 

12. How much did your gauge measure when used for halv- 

ing? 

13. Have you done the gauging from the face side only? 

14. Have you taken one half out of the face side on one piece 

and the other half out of the opposite side of the other 

piece ? State clearly how you did this 

15. Have you cut or split the gauge mark when using the chisel? 

16. Is the dug out part or surface from edge to edge straight 

and free from bumps and hollows ? 

17. Did you find any difficulty in putting the pieces together? 

Which piece and how ? 

18. Have your two face sides turned up together, or are they 

at opposite sides ? 

19. Are your joints close and tight, or are they open? State 

how large the openings are, if any 



30 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME ST UD Y SCHOOLS 

20. Are the two pieces joined at right angles, or square to each 

other? If not, state how much out of square at a length. 

of 53/ in ,' 

21. What are your expert friends terming your exercise? 



22. General remarks. 



23. Does your saw hang right ? 

24. Does your saw cut smooth ? 

25. Do you push and crowd your saw ? 

26. Do you give the saw its own way ? 

27. Do you guide the saw so as to cut on mark ? 

28. Is your saw sharp ? 

29. Do you have difficulty in filing and setting your saw ? State 

clearly wherein and how 



30. What is a saw kerf? 

31. What is pitch or rake of the saw tooth?. 



31 



THE CRAFTSMAN'S HOME STUDY SCHOOLS 



32. Explain the difference between rip and panel saws. 



33. How do you grind your plane iron?. 



34. Is the face of it straight, round or hollow ? 

35. Is the bevel of it convex (round) ? 

36. Is the bevel of it concave (hollow) ? 

37. What kind of oil are you using on your whetstone? 

38. Do you hold the bevel edge on the iron flat on the stone?. . . 

39. Do you hold the rear part of the bevel edge clear from the 

whetstone ? 

40. Do you have any difficulty in whetting? State clearly 

41. How far from the cutting edge do you place the end of the 



cap 



32 



